When to Plant Garlic in Melbourne — Cool Temperate Guide

Garlic

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Garlic is one of the most rewarding crops for Australian home gardeners. Plant cloves in autumn, harvest in summer - it practically grows itself. Variety selection is critical: softneck types for warm climates, hardneck for cold. Subtropical-specific varieties exist for northern growers. Home-grown garlic is vastly superior to imported Chinese garlic that dominates supermarket shelves.

Current Growing Conditions

Soil temperature: 21.9°C (optimal range: 5–20°C) ✗ Outside optimal range

How to Grow Garlic in Cool Temperate Australia

When to Plant

March to May. Earlier plantings establish better root systems before winter. Melbourne's cold winters provide the chill hardneck garlic needs.

Soil
Well-drained, fertile sandy loam enriched with aged compost. Garlic absolutely demands good drainage - waterlogged soil causes bulb rot. Raised beds ideal in heavy clay areas. Do not add fresh manure at planting time.
pH Range
6.0-7.0
Sunlight
Full sun (6+ hours). No shade tolerance - garlic needs maximum sun for bulb development.
Spacing
15cm apart, 25cm between rows
Watering
Water regularly during active growth (autumn-spring) but reduce watering as leaves begin to yellow in late spring/summer. Stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvest - wet soil at harvest causes storage ro

Companion plants: Rose, Tomato, Beetroot, Lettuce, Chamomile, Strawberry

Avoid planting near: Peas, Beans, Asparagus, Sage

Cool Temperate Growing Tips for Garlic

Recommended Varieties

  • Printanor (Artichoke)
  • Italian White (Artichoke)
  • Music (Porcelain Hardneck)
  • Spanish Roja (Rocambole Hardneck)
  • Australian White (Softneck)

Key Challenges

  • White rot in some areas (devastating, incurable)
  • Rust in spring
  • Waterlogging in heavy Melbourne clay

Pro Tips

  • Melbourne is excellent garlic country - cold winters trigger proper bulbing
  • Hardneck varieties (Music, Spanish Roja) thrive in Melbourne and produce superior flavour
  • Plant in raised beds if drainage is poor - waterlogged garlic rots

Harvesting Garlic

When ready: Bottom 3-4 leaves brown and dried, top 4-5 leaves still green. This typically indicates 5-7 bulb wrappers remain (each green leaf = one wrapper). Do not wait until all leaves die - bulb wrappers deteriorate and bulbs split open. Dig one test bulb to check - cloves should fill the wrapper tightly with clear clove differentiation.

How to harvest: Loosen soil alongside row with garden fork, then gently lift bulbs. Do NOT pull by the stalk - it may break. Brush off loose soil but do not wash. Cure in a dry, shaded, well-ventilated area for 2-4 weeks until outer wrappers are papery and stems are dry. Trim roots and stalks after curing (or braid softneck types).

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